Derbies vs. Richelieu: what are the differences and how should they be worn?

While the formal elegance of Richelieu shoes appeals to fashion purists, Derbies offer casual comfort and unrivalled versatility. Discover the fascinating history of these shoes, their distinctive features and practical advice on how to wear them for every occasion. 

The origins of Derbies and Richelieu

Derbies: a military origin

Derbies have their origins in the military world of the 19th century. Initially designed to offer greater comfort to soldiers, Derbies were intended to replace the rigid, inflexible boots of the time. Their open lacing system made them easier and quicker to fit, providing comfort for long marches and the rigours of military service.

Over time, Derbies were adopted by civilian society, becoming an essential part of men's wardrobes. Their comfort and practicality have won them a wide following, from the battlefield to the city streets. Today, Derbies come in a variety of versions, from the classic smooth leather model to the brown suede Derby, and are worn for both casual and formal occasions.

Richelieu: aristocratic roots

Richelieu shoes, also known as Oxfords, have deep aristocratic roots. They are named after Cardinal de Richelieu, although their popularity is attributed to British university circles in the 19th century. Students at Oxford University adopted these elegant shoes, contributing to their spread under the name Oxfords.

The Richelieu is distinguished by its closed lacing, giving the shoe a more formal and sophisticated appearance. Originally worn by the aristocracy and academics, Richelieu shoes have come to symbolise elegance and refinement. Their sleek design and high-quality leather construction made them the preferred choice for ceremonial and formal occasions.

Over the years, Richelieu shoes have retained their status as the benchmark in dress shoes, fitting perfectly into the wardrobe of those seeking to combine style and tradition. Whether in smooth black leather or calfskin, these shoes embody excellence and distinction.

Derby shoes: open laces, independent tongue and a casual look

Women's Derby shoes are renowned for their distinctive open lace-up system. The eyelets are sewn onto the upper, making the quarters separate from the vamp. This design offers a more relaxed and adjustable fit, ensuring comfort and ease of wear, making Derbies a favourite for many.

The different materials used in Derbies

Traditionally made from leather, Derbies are now available in a variety of materials, including velour, nubuck, and even patent leather for a more polished look. High-quality Derbies often feature Goodyear welt construction, which improves durability and allows for easy repair, significantly extending the life of the shoe. This meticulous craftsmanship ensures that the shoes are not only stylish but also durable.

Derbies variants

Derbies are available in several stylistic variations. The simple Derby, with its minimalist design, exudes a refined, understated elegance. The brogue Derbies, meanwhile, feature decorative perforations that add a touch of casual flair and sophistication. For a modern touch, platform Derbies incorporate a thick sole, offering a bold, contemporary aesthetic.

When should you wear Derbies?

The versatility of Derbies is one of their greatest assets. They can go effortlessly from business casual to casual chic. For a polished office look, pair simple leather Derbies with tailored trousers or a pencil skirt and blouse, adding a blazer to complete the ensemble. For casual chic, velvet Derbies or brogues work well with skinny jeans or a midi skirt and a tucked-in shirt, striking a balance between casual and chic. For a trendy, casual look, platform Derbies can be paired with boyfriend jeans and an oversized jumper or casual dress.

Richelieu shoes for a slim silhouette

Richelieu shoes, also known as Oxfords, are characterised by their closed lace-up system. The eyelets are sewn under the vamp, creating an elegant, streamlined look that gives the shoe a more formal, sophisticated look. This design is ideal for dressier occasions where a polished, refined look is required.

The different materials used in Richelieus

Generally made from high-quality leather, Richelieu shoes often feature Goodyear welt or Blake stitching construction, ensuring durability and a refined finish. Meticulous craftsmanship and polished finishes give Richelieu shoes their distinct elegance, making them a chic addition to any wardrobe.

The different styles of Richelieu

Richelieu shoes also come in a variety of styles. The simple Oxford model, with its minimalist design, is perfect for formal environments, offering an elegant, understated look. The straight-toe Oxfords feature a distinctive toe, making them more suitable for professional and business environments. Brogue Oxfords, featuring decorative perforations, are ideal for semi-formal occasions, adding a stylish and sophisticated touch to any outfit.

How to wear Richelieu shoes

Richelieu shoes are best suited to formal and semi-formal attire. For formal office wear, pair simple or straight-toe Oxfords with a tailored suit, pencil skirt and blouse, or sheath dress. This combination is perfect for business meetings and professional environments where a polished look is essential. For cocktail parties, patent leather Oxfords are an excellent choice, complementing elegant dresses and ensembles with their sleek, shiny finish.

Derbies vs. Richelieu: how to choose?

When comparing Derbies and Richelieu shoes, several key differences emerge. Richelieu shoes generally exude a higher level of formality due to their closed lacing system and streamlined design. They are better suited to formal and professional environments, offering a polished and sophisticated look that is essential for such occasions. Derbies, on the other hand, offer a more relaxed and flexible fit, making them ideal for a wider range of contexts, from casual to business casual to casual chic.

In terms of comfort and fit, Richelieu shoes offer a snug fit that may appear more structured but is ideal for formal appearances. Derbies, with their open lacing system, offer a more comfortable and flexible fit, making them suitable for extended wear and casual settings.

Derbies and Richelieu shoes require regular maintenance to keep them in good condition. Using a high-quality shoe polish and conditioner, and storing them with shoe trees to maintain their shape, will ensure they stay in excellent condition.

In a nutshell:

Ideas for pairing with Derbies and Richelieu shoes

Chic casual wear

• Outfit: Slim jeans, white shirt, structured blazer.
• Accessories: Leather handbag, elegant belt, sunglasses.
• Tip: Raise the shirt cuffs for a casual touch.

Casual work wear

• Outfit: Chino trousers, cashmere jumper, lightweight trench coat.
• Accessories: Minimalist watch, tote bag, silk scarf.
• Tip: Choose patent leather Derbies to add a touch of sophistication.

Dress for a weekend in the countryside

• Outfit: Sweater dress, opaque tights, long cardigan.
• Accessories: Wool scarf, leather backpack, knitted hat.
• Tip: Choose Derbies with a notched sole for added comfort and style.

Evening wear 

• Outfit: Fitted midi dress, velvet bolero, thin tights.
• Accessories: Sparkling clutch, delicate jewellery, cloche hat.
• Tip: Patent leather Richelieu shoes add an extra touch of glamour.

All-purpose outfit

• Outfit: Pencil skirt, turtleneck jumper, classic trench coat.
• Accessories: Thin belt, structured handbag, leather gloves.
• Tip: Richelieu brogues (with perforations) add character to your outfit.